“Not content with the harness and trappings of various descriptions with which the fashionable woman must needs burden herself in these foolish fashion days, there has now made its appearance in the fashionable shops that cater to the ultra – advanced fashion whims, what is known as the “hobble-garter.”
The new contrivance follows closely on the heels of the much-discussed hobble-skirt, a freakish idea thrown up by the fashion tide, the lasting qualities of which are a moot question among the fashion authorities of both the Continent and this side of the water. Narrow in its confines, uncomfortable in the wearing, because of its pull-back effect, the women who wear them, so it is reported, have discovered that not only is free locomotion well nigh impossible, but if the wearer even makes use of her natural step when encased in one of these new freak gowns there is danger of a stumble and fall when least expected, and there is the added excitement of practically tearing the skirt asunder if it be fashioned of light material, unless a mincing gait is assumed.
Such a walk is not acquired in a day or even a month, and therefore there has been devised for the hobblers a particularly feminine piece of torture—for it is nothing else—which we herewith illustrate and which for lack of creative ability on the part of its devisers is called the “hobble-garter.”
This new dress adjunct may be best described as consisting of two silken garters fastened below the knees with bejewelled clasps (they are not cheap articles) and ornamented with bows of the same shade as the elastic and ribbon used. These are in turn connected by the use of a strap of elastic webbing of the same color, not over a foot in length. It can be readily seen that so equipped the danger of tripping, missteps, or of damaging the gown is minimized, and all this in detriment to the natural gait which is entirely lost by its use. Silly fashions have come and gone, but it remains for the fashions of the fall of 1910 to develop this latest freak—the ‘hobble-garter.’ ”
~ Notions and Fancy Goods, September 1910
via Edwardian Promenade
(Source: feedproxy.google.com)
reblogged from vintagevision:
“JERUSALEM (AP) — For ultra-Orthodox Jews who shun secular newspapers, radio and the Internet, the best way to hear the news has long been by literally reading the writing on the wall. The insular, strictly religious community still relies on black and white posters pasted up on walls in their neighborhoods to hear the latest rulings from important rabbis on modest dress, upcoming protests and the correct way to vote in elections. Now one avid collector has teamed up with Israel’s National Library to bring this old-fashioned form of communication into the 21st century by scanning more than 20,000 of the posters — known locally as “pashkevilim” — into a digital online archive. The project, which includes an exhibit that opened at the library earlier this month, offers a glimpse into one of the main media used by a group trying to hold the line against the march of modernity.” (source)Note: this particular poster “provides a visual guide to women, warning against all the ways a shirt collar can be immodest.”
ca. 1870
” … The early ’70s dress bodice could be as high-waisted and round as the ’60s but also developed a short tail or basque at the back. The neckline was often square and decorated with a lace frill. Long, two-piece, coat sleeves were set into armholes that were gradually returning to the natural shoulder point. Alternative elbow-length sleeves, widened into a frill below, like the pagoda sleeves of the previous decade, often with a profusion of lace. There was more than a hint of the eighteenth century about the square neck and be-frilled elbow-length sleeve.”
I found it surprising that red undergarments were so popular since Victorian fashion was so modest! I’m not saying all Victorians were prudes, (we have black and white photos that prove they most certainly were not prudish in the bedroom.) But the society they lived in had many rules on etiquette and the dress code was often strict (refer to the red boot post on ankle boots and Victorian modesty). You can understand my surprise because the colour red is so sensual and erotic.
I forget the source because this was just a note attached to my file on Victorian undergarments: “Petticoats and drawers of red flannel were worn during the beginning of the era, with red stockings to match.”
All of these steel birdcages are courtesy of the V&A.
Edit: Much thanks to genderific for this information: In the nineteenth century, it was thought that red wool was the warmest kind of wool, because it was so bright and vibrant. That’s also why union suits and long johns were traditionally red flannel.
